Monday, December 10, 2012

The Greatest Rock Climb in the World

I saw Mash before he saw me. Somehow I got the drop on him. He was unpacking the El Cap haul bag and gesticulating intensely, no doubt talking about dolphins having sex under a full moonbow in the tranquil waters of his homeland, Costa Rica. It pretty much went like this:

“Mash! Great to see you...What’s up?”
“We’re climbing El Cap, you and me.”
“Well, my brother’s here, we’re thinking about getting on The Salathe”
“Great, let’s DO IT! But let’s climb The Nose first to warm-up, then we’ll rest for like one day, THEN climb The Salathe!!”

Then he gave me a small, silver frog charm which he blessed in Costa Rica, (Mash is a shaman) and attached it to some p-cord and my neck. I’m still a bit concerned about having a full strength piece of cord around my spinal column and sole airway...but no problems yet!

Mash is full of cosmic psyche and really good at convincing, but back to back Cap’n routes seemed like a bit much. We slept on it, and Joel and I decided just climbing The Salathe would be enough, for now...

Mash has climbed The Nose approximately one billion times, and doesn’t seem to be any less excited about a couple billion more ascents. He’d climbed The Salathe some ten years before, and volunteered to haul “the whole route” while we climbed free (well mostly free). What? A shaman haul monkey?? Perrrfect.

My brother had never climbed a proper El Cap route, what better way to start than “the greatest rock climb in the world”, to quote Royal Robbins. I’d tried the route two years prior...and bailed after hauling chimneys sapped my energy for climbing free, and the weather...wait its Cali...yes the sun, that’s it! And, well it was too hot, so...

Sooo, here it is...THE El Capitan!!

So it begins...Joel climbing on P5 Freeblast

Joel leads below The Half Dollar

 Malu, Joel, and an Orange on Heart Ledges

 Alex and Mash on Hollow Flake Ledge
Did you get your tickets?

 The FrEEbiRD himself!!

 Roger Suen leading below The Ear

Behind The Spire, an increeeedible spot!
Mash is below in The Alcove 

Chillin' hard as I lead above The Spire

Roger and Alex approaching The Salathe Headwall at dusk

Sending love from The Block at dusk

The Monkey Shaman tackles The Roooof, approximately 9pm

Looking well rested on Looong Ledge.
Not quite long enough for 5 monkeys!

Ridicuhlusly steep!

Fusterclucking near the summit

Roger jammin' some amazing free pitch waaay up!

Soaking it in on the descent

We're gonna need a bigger van...

Saturday, July 21, 2012

Of Granite and Amigos

 Scream in Stone

 The crack just kept getting bigger...

 Scott Bennett hanging on a solid flake.

 Clayton, Scott, Torres.

Cheyne contemplating the latest bail.  A month earlier on this same peak, myself and 9 climbers made a rescue attempt.  We were unsuccessful.  I think about Carlyle and Bjorn every day.

 Self portrait on my birthday with Kate's Birthday Girl sash.  Smug face says it all.  

 Golden Eagle attempt with Scott.

 Poince looking good.

 Option number 2...

 Schmetterling!  (Butterfly in German)

 In order to increase tourism, build a road where a trail once was.  George W. Hayduke would have been proud to see me pluck more than one piece of flagging.  Fight the RISE OF THE MACHINES!!

 Lago San Martin.

 We attempted to cross the Andes and had to turn back.  Just one valley to the North of El Chalten and completely remote.  Fortunately there was some pasta and chocolate at this Puesto.  We did have to fend off the rats...

 In order to welcome Jens home from AK, Scott and I had a bake off.  Pizza and Banana bread.

These photos are a compilation of the last few months.  The idea is to inspire myself and others.  Now GO CLIMBING!

Joel is in the Tetons climbing and working for Exum Mountain Guides.  Neil is in the Eastern Sierra climbing and working to save the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog.  When the work is over in mid September, we'll unite and climb together.  Until then, keep it tight out there!