Thursday, April 29, 2010

Check out the below link to our friend Jeremiah Watt's ( latest assignment

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Why Indian Creek is the destination

Neil and I arrived in Indian Creek late in the day on April 14. On the 15th we were re-united with the Boss and Crew, a remarkably strong, intelligent, and colorful temporary Wingate Crack sub-committee of the climbing community at large.

Attendance at Andres Marin's B-Day bash was up this year and the ratio of girls to guys approached 1:1. An unknown factoid: 90% of attendees had separated from their significant others within the past month. i.e. Lots of partying!

Boss Gleason belays Pat Ormond on BUZZ!

Pat re-opened a Gobi while thrutching.

Mason contemplates why the Creek is easier living than a Patagonian Big Wall

Neil leads Man in Black (5.12-) at the Cliffs of Insanity

Dawn Glanc and Pat Ormand pulled and re-led everything including a candidate for most aesthetic splitter, the venerable Wiggins 1.

Spring storms create remarkable growth in the Desert. The red sand landscape is transformed into contrasting greens and lavender with the white-capped Henrys, Abajos, and La Sal Mountains providing an astounding back-drop for our attempts at crack mastery.

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

The SE USA was the location of our re-introduction. We climbed on the North side of Looking Glass, Rumbling Bald, Hawk's Beak, and Short Out. After 10 days of alternately thwacking the rode and sampling Athen's Terrapin signature Brews we flew back to Salt Lake City and the GREAT AMERICAN WEST!! Stay tuned for updates from the greatest crack climbing destination on earth...

Los Hermanos at the Lynville Gorge

The North Face of Looking Glass, "Yosemitesque."

Neil contemplating Round 2 at Short Off.

On top of Hawk's Beak, NC.

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Los Hermanos have been stateside for 11 days sampling the Southeast’s finest granite, sandstone, and home-made pecan pie. Before gettin’ in-ta’ the nitty gritty, a quick recount of the Patagonian Summer.

6) IV 5.10 Donnini-Crouch, Tito Corrasco, Pier Giorgio Valle, Argentina

5) V 5.10 My Little Pony Traverse (Fonrouge, Guillomet to Argentine, Mermoz)

4) V 5.11 A0 M5 condition Donnini-Crouch, Aguja Rafael Juarez (Inominata).

Whit and "topo"...

Joel mixes it up with crampons on "approach" shoes for the frozen microcosm on the North side of Innominata.

Name that two tiered feature over Neil's left shoulder. Hint: an infamous Free-Baser linked this lower ridge to the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre. Speaking of the devil...

The Bone Crushing hasty team.

3) IV 5.10 Brenner Ridge, Aguja Guillomet

Trailer park party!

2) Amy Coulour, Guillomet

1) Supercanaleta, Fitz Roy

“Fitz Roy isn’t going anywhere.

You take what you can get in Patagonia

and then you go home.”

Jeremy Collins

Return to Estados

Neil and I arrived in the United States of America at 0545 on April 2. We spent the next two hours persuading a Delta employee to let us exit the final security check-point with our luggage and without a 400USD/person change fee. We were “breaching the contract by terminating the trip before arriving at the final destination.”

After four months in Argentina (the tourist visas last for 90 days; add an additional 300 pesos/person for visa extension) we had learned a lot about getting ripped off because we are “rubia y azul” from “yankeelandia.” This is the land of the free, if we want out of the airport, you can’t hold us captive! A quick repack solved the issue and we had the luxury of having our uselss-in-the-Southeast alpine climbing gear air lifted to SLC.

From the largest international airport in the world, we drove straight to Looking Glass in the Pisgah National Forest in North Carolina. The North side of the Glass has been compared to Yosemite Valley...